If there is a place in Italy that I always visit, it is a once small fishing village at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast called Nerano. It is now a booming town of restaurants and hotels. The rich and the famous come from all parts of the world to try one dish, which surprisingly enough contains absolutely no seafood. It is a richly, smooth cheese pasta with fried zucchini and basil, so simple, yet so heavenly. I defy a top chef to beat the unique flavor and authenticity of this dish. This is the source of the popularity and power of attraction of this town and my restaurant is the original one where this dish was invented: Maria Grazia. What I love about this restaurant, as with all my favorite restaurants in Italy is the love and dedication of entire families to their rich and unique family traditions. This recipe is handed down only in the family. By the way, and most importantly, rest assured that all the dishes served are authentic in their traditional values, freshness and flavor. There is simply nothing more delightful than sitting on the open balcony of Maria Grazia after finishing my meal, watching the boats pass by, the rolling waves, the little children running along the pebbled beach, listening to their happy voices as I sip a crisp white wine, talk with the granddaughter who serves at the table about the changes through the years, her growing family and listening to the quiet pride in her beautiful lilting voice.
Spaghetti al Nerano – Zucchini and Three Cheeses
Serves 12
Preparation: 45 minutes
2 lbs. spaghetti
8 large zucchini, cut into ¼ inch pieces
1 cup oil for frying
2 cups basil, chopped finely
1 cup Manchego, grated
1 cup Fontina, grated
1 cup Parmiggiano, + 1 cup to be served at the table
Salt and pepper to taste
1. In a large skillet pour about ½ of the oil, not olive oil as the flavor is too strong. Heat and add a small portion of the zucchini, approximately ¾ cup. Fry until golden brown, and then with a slotted spoon place in a large bowl. Add more zucchini to the oil. Then on the cooked zucchini add salt and pepper, Manchego, Fontina, Parmiggiano and approximately 1 Tbsp. basil. Keep doing this until all the zucchini is cooked. Add extra oil if necessary, heating until the oil is hot enough to add more zucchini. Before adding all the remaining cheeses take approximately 2 cups of the zucchini and set aside. Then finish by throwing the cheese and basil on top as well as the remaining oil in the pan over the zucchini. Let rest for at about ½ hour. This is important as it seals in the flavor and creates the creaminess essential to this dish.
2. In the meantime, put the water onto boil, and add salt to the water once it reaches boiling point. When the water returns to a boil, add the pasta, stirring frequently to prevent the spaghetti sticking together. Let cook following the instructions on the box, although you should cook absolutely al dente, as it will continue to cook as you add the cheese sauce. In fact, do a minute less than al dente. Do remember to check for salt halfway through the cooking process. Always remember to keep approximately 3 cups of the cooking water, as it lightens up the sauce and aids in making it creamier, as well as to maintain the heat of the pasta when it arrives at the table. You may not have to use it all, but better to be safe than sorry. At this point add some of the water the prepared zucchini-cheese mix. Stir or whisk rapidly as if you were preparing a Cacio e Pepe. Add more water if necessary. Cheating you can place about a third of zucchini-cheese mix in a blender or food processor with approximately 1 cup of the water and create a green sauce. This will be added later to the pasta.
When the pasta is ready, pour out the remaining water using a colander, and then return the pasta to the pot. Add the prepared zucchini and the zucchini sauce to the pasta, stirring quickly over a low flame and adding slowly the remaining water. Use as much as needed to create a rich cheesy sauce. Add more black pepper if desired and serve at once. Place the remaining Parmiggiano in a bowl on the table.
**Note: These are not the cheeses that are used, as the cheese used in Nerano is native to that area and unavailable in most of Italy, much less the United States. I love this combination, even using a creamy Spanish cheese to give me a hint of what I love about this pasta. Many Neapolitans when they are served this dish in my home are pleasantly shocked when they recognize the dish and are very appreciative. So that makes me incredibly happy to honor one of my favorite restaurants in the world.