Photo: Melissa Hom
Pasta alla Siciliana
I am sure that by now you will have understood that my greatest problem with the kitchen and food is my propensity for boredom. I love new combinations and the magic of mixing herbs and spices together to create a new dish, basically by using the recipe from another dish. Actually I think that’s how recipes are always born. So going back to the Pasta di San Lorenzo, I decided I would take the recipe and rework it, but always keeping in mind Sicily and it’s glorious sunshine: a remembrance of which the combination of these flavors and aromas definitely bring to mind.
Thinking back to Sicily, I thought of using the ingredients that I identify with the island: capers, olives, pine nuts, cinnamon, tomatoes, oregano, and perhaps for some surprisingly toasted breadcrumbs. Do remember that capers in Italian, and above all in Sicily are conserved under salt. There is indeed a difference in flavor if conserved in vinegar. The best are those from Sicily and I deliberately left out the tuna, pine nuts and cinnamon, but and I do admit, I left out accidentally the bay leaves. However, here the herb front and center is the oregano. The flavors came together beautifully. From the very first time I made it, it was a hit, and my guests were all Italian. I believe they loved the idea of the warm and inviting flavors. I do believe that island people have similar tastes and traditions, so I was delighted that they recognized the sense of comfort and pure simplicity of this pasta.
Pasta alla Siciliana
Serves 12 || Preparation: 30 minutes
Ingredients:
2 lbs pasta Cavatappi, or another short pasta shape
¼ cup + 2 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 large cloves of garlic, finely chopped
1 cup parsley, cut finely and save the stems
1/3 cup olives, slivered
1/3 cup capers under salt
¼ tsp. hot red pepper flakes (I prefer the flavor of powdered Jamaican country pepper)
2 sprigs fresh oregano, or 2 tsp. dried oregano
2 cup freshly ground breadcrumbs, toasted in oven with 1 tsp. dried oregano
2 cans Pomodorini di Collina / cherry tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
salt & pepper to taste
1. To begin preheat oven to 350º F. Prepare an ovenproof dish. Mix breadcrumbs with 1 tsp. oregano and place in dish. Put in oven for approximately 5 – 10 minutes. Stirring occasionally so that it uniformly browns.You can also do this stove top, but I prefer the oven as I can do something else at the same time. Set aside to cool when done. Place the toasted breadcrumbs in bowls as you would cheese and pass around the table when serving the pasta. Do set aside approximately ¼ cup crumbs to be sprinkled over the pasta before carrying to the table.
2. In the meantime in a large skillet with a cover combine the olive oil with the garlic and the cut parsley stems. Sauté for a few minutes. Then add the olives and capers (washed and soaked for about 15 minutes in hot water to get rid of some of the salt). Let sauté for a minute and then add the remaining oregano and red pepper flakes.
3. Finally add the tomatoes and let cook slowly. Every once in a while add some parsley, but do reserve about ¼ cup for addition before serving the pasta. Always taste before adding salt as the salt from the capers is usually enough. Grind in black pepper. Let simmer slowly until ready to serve, stirring occasionally so that the sauce doesn’t stick at the bottom.
4. In the meantime, put the water on to boil, and add salt to the water once it reaches boiling point. When the water returns to a boil, add the pasta and let cook following the instructions on the box. Do remember to check for salt halfway through the cooking process. Always remember to keep some of the cooking water, as it is great to lighten up the sauce if it is too thick and it also helps to make it a bit creamier in texture, and to maintain the heat of the pasta when it arrives at the table. Do be careful about adding water however to pastas sauces with tomatoes. Add also if you feel it is necessary about a Tbsp or two of fresh olive oil stirring it in carefully. Pour the pasta into a dish. Scatter the remaining parsley and breadcrumbs on top and serve.
Buon Appetito!
*Side:
I always keep the scraps of bread when I cutout my shapes for crostini and freeze them. Sometimes I freeze them just like that, or if I have time I put all my scraps into the food processor and push a button. Whrrrr, and all done!!! Breadcrumbs come in handy for many dishes, and as in this case can be used as a substitute for cheese.
This pasta is also easily prepared for a party, and is a guaranteed success. Just like the Pasta di San Lorenzo triple the ingredients.